Ewe-phoric Spanish Cheeses

By Stacey Adams-Zier

As I go about my daily ritual of caring for my cheeses, I often repeat a simple mantra: “Sheep’s milk makes the best cheese, sheep’s milk makes the best cheese…” If you doubt this, just have a taste for yourself. From the ever famous French Roquefort to the little known Portuguese Azeitao, sheep’s milk cheeses represent something a little exotic and out of the ordinary and the best I know come from Spain.

Sheep naturally produce a smaller quantity of richer, more concentrated milk over a shorter time period than cows and since cheesemaking is all about concentrating the flavors in the milk, ewe’s milk is one step ahead in the process. It’s often said that goat’s milk is best for drinking, cow’s milk makes the best butter, and sheep’s milk makes the best cheese. Although it contains twice as much fat as cow’s milk, it offers over 75 percent more protein. Sheep’s milk is easily identifiable over cow’s milk because it’s pure white in color.

Spain has a high average elevation with windswept, rocky pasturelands and displays all the markets of superior cheesemaking: rustic local production; cheeses named after their places of origin; and ancient traditions upheld by generations of farmers, herders and cheesemakers. With over 100 cheeses produced in Spain, 14 are protected under the DO laws and labeled Denominacion de Origen Protegida.

Here are three of my favorites:

Idiazabál [ee-dee-ah-ZAH-bal] is a raw sheep’s milk cheese made from the milk of the Latxa breed, which only produce 100 liters of milk per season. The name Idiazabál comes from a village in the Goierri Valley in the heart of the Basque region. The reason why Idiazabál was chosen as the name of this cheese’s DOP it is not clear, but its long-held reputation – for more than a century – as a producer of quality cheese seems to be the most likely reason. The origin of Idiazabál resides in the tradition of the transhumance, the annual ritual of moving animals into the mountains to feed on spring and summer pasture and then back down to the valley during cold spells. The shepherds made their spring and summer cheeses in huts and brought the wheels down to the market in the village when they descended in the fall. The huts were heated with wood fires, so the cheeses gradually became infused with smoke, and the villagers soon came to love the taste. This smoked sheep’s milk cheese is aged for at least two months and is firm but not dry, with a pronounced acidity and a rich, buttery sheep’s milk taste subtly infused with smoke. Because of the smokiness, finding a wine partner for Idiazabál can be a challenge. If the cheese is young, it will pair well with a fino sherry; if it’s more mature, look to a dry amontillado sherry or a robust fruity red wine such as a young Rioja.

Queso de la Serena [KEH-soh deh lah seh-REHN-ah] is one of Spain’s wonderful “torta-style” cheeses hailing from the province of Badajoz, in Extremadura (”the land of Extremes”), in western Spain and was awarded DOP status in 1992. The prized Merino sheep is an ancient and venerable breed responsible for making this one of Spain’s greatest cheeses feeding solely on fresh grass and acorns. A farmer needs ten sheep to produce enough milk for a single pound of cheese. It’s hardly surprising, then, that Queso de la Serena is one of the most expensive cheeses in Spain. It’s traditionally made with raw milk and coagulated with rennet from the Cynara cardunculus (cardoon thistle) plant imparting subtle bitter and sour hints to the cheese. At its peak, Serena is very soft, provocatively flavored, and ultimately intoxicating. The paste is rich, unctuous, and silky however don’t let that fool you. Serena is not for the novice cheese eater. Its pungent flavor has a bit of a kick that mellows in the mouth and ends with a sweet fruitiness. I like to think of it as the ultimate party cheese because you simply slice across the top and dive in with a spoon. It’s like having instant fondue with an edible pot and no messy dishes to clean. Match a glass of Rioja with some olives and a bit of the Serena and you have a culinary trip to Spain without having to brush up on those high school Spanish lessons.

Zamorano [sah-moh-RAHN-oh] is a majestic, noble cheese produced in Zamora, in the province of Castile-Leon, northwest of Madrid, near the northeastern corner of Portugal. It is similar to Manchego, but the local breeds of sheep – the Churra and the Castilian, both bred for the high-quality milk-have a higher fat content, giving the cheese an added heft and richness. Each 9-pound drum is pressed, uncooked, rubbed with olive oil and aged a minimum of 100 days in cool caves (which, incidentally, were used for barrel aging of wines.) The hard grayish-brown rind has a distinctive zigzag pattern on its sides, from the esparto grass band tied around it during pressing. A good raw-milk Zamorano has the same dignified stature as Beaufort from France or Parmigiano-Reggiano from Italy. Right out of the cave, the paste is very firm, yet creamy in consistency with a full, round, nutty flavor with just a hint of fruitiness and saltiness. After a few more weeks of aging it gradually crystallizes, becomes flaky, and offers a subtle bite without losing its underlying sweetness. Pair Zamorano with medium-bodied, soft-tannic reds such as Tempranillo blends, Syrah blends, Pinot Noir and ideally, a California Zinfandel.

What to serve with these Spanish cheeses? A few dried figs, Marcona almonds, and some slices of Serrano jamon make the perfect accompaniment to a Spanish cheeseboard. Flamenco music optional.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at http://www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

Cheeses from the Greek Islands

Santorini, Greece

By Stacey Adams-Zier

If the Melteme winds had been wreaking havoc, as they usually always do in June, I would have sailed right by the Island of Kea and would have never had the chance to meet Aglaia Kremezi, an international authority on Greek foods. What I learned from her changed my way of eating and made me realize that food can be both sophisticated and uncomplicated and as seductive as the Greek islands.

I spent that summer sailing through the Agean Sea, all along the way eating my fill of rich Greek yogurt and honey, succulent grilled octopus, tender Lobster spaghetti and perfect Greek salads. But, it wasn’t until I landed in Kos, an island just west of Turkey, that I had grilled Haloumi, which put a whole new spin on grilled cheese.

I have yet to find a cheese that grills up as nicely as Haloumi. A light, golden-brown crust bubbles up on the outside of the cheese; the interior gets soft but, not quite runny. Don’t worry, grilling Haloumi is hardly difficult. Just slice some of the cheese into half-inch thick pieces, and then lay them into a hot grill that’s been brushed with a bit of olive oil (in fact you can even go without any at all if that’s your preference.) Grill until it’s lightly browned on one side, about two to three minutes and then carefully flip the slices to grill the other side. When the cheese is golden brown on both sides, it’s ready to eat.

Grilled Halloumi with Kalamata olives and fresh tomatoes

I like to serve it with oven-roasted tomatoes scented with mint leaves, cured olives and a caper spread. Even Bobby Flay, grill master of the Food Network, knows good grilled cheese. He grills Haloumi with a sprinkle of oregano and a squeeze of fresh lemon. I can’t think of a better cheese to serve for Memorial Day weekend.

Haloumi (hal-OO-mi), (a.k.a. halloumi, or hallum) the most famous sheep’s milk cheese of Cyprus, is a semi-hard, firm white cheese with a somewhat elastic texture, similar to mozzarella. It is firmer than feta and doesn’t crumble when sliced, making it excellent for grilling and frying. Haloumi is formed into blocks 6 x 4 x 1 inch thick and then cooked in hot whey. The blocks are then salted, folded, and submerged in brine. In the U.S. Halloumi usually sold in vacuum-sealed pouches either plain or sprinkled with mint. If it’s too salty for your taste, simply soak it in cold water overnight or rinse it under lukewarm water for a few minutes. Unlike most cheeses, haloumi can be frozen without losing its texture or flavor.

Feta (feh-TAH) cheese is a staple in the Greece diet. Authentic feta is made primarily from sheep’s milk, with a small amount of goat’s milk and is naturally very white in color with a tangy taste and a creamy texture. Most feta produced in northern Europe and the United States is made with cow’s milk and unfortunately, treated with chemicals to make it white. The flavor and texture is incomparable to the real thing, so read the labels carefully and buy only from a specialty grocer or cheese shop. In 2005, Feta earned DOP status which means that now only feta from Greece can be legally called “feta.” Because it’s shaped into large blocks or small square cakes, cured and stored in its own salty whey-brine for two months, feta is often referred to as pickled cheese. It’s best kept stored in its brine but if this is not possible, buy only a small amount at a time and store it, covered, in the refrigerator where it will last for 3 or 4 days.

From island to island, every Greek salad I ate came adorned with a huge slab of feta rather than the sprinkles or cubes you get here in the U.S. I suppose the Greeks understand that it’s all about the cheese.

If you don’t care for the tanginess of feta a neat trick is to warm it up to coax out the sweetness in the milk. This is one of the quickest appetizers I know that only takes a few ingredients and delivers a sensational presentation. Place a slab of feta on an oven-safe dish and brush with extra-virgin olive oil. Place the dish under the broiler and cook until the feta becomes soft and takes on some brown marks. While it’s cooking heat a small saucepan with a cup of your favorite honey and anise seed. Remove the feta from the oven and drizzle the warm honey on top. Serve with crusty bread or even better, warm pita bread.

Greek Country Salad

6 oz. Feta Cheese in a block
3 Ripe tomatoes, cut in wedges
1 Cucumber, peeled, sliced
1 Green bell pepper, sliced
1 Red onion, sliced medium
1/4 cup Kalamata olives
1/3 cup Extra virgin olive oil
2 TBS Fresh lemon juice
1 tsp Greek oregano
Salt & Pepper to taste

Place the tomatoes, cucumber, pepper, onions and olives in a bowl. Cut the feta into large pieces, place on top of vegetables. Mix dressing in separate bowl, pour over salad. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4.

Other Greek cheeses most readily available in the United States include:

Kefalotyri (kefa-lo-TEE-ri), is considered the ancestor of many hard Greek cheeses. It’s a sharp, pungent, hard aged cheese, and made from a combination of sheep’s and cow’s milk, often with the addition of goat’s milk. It has a salty and piquant taste and a unique rich aroma which is obtained after ripening for at least 3 months. Think pecorino-Romano from Italy or 12-month Manchego from Spain and you’ll get the idea of this style of cheese.

Arugula, Prosciutto and Kefalotiri

So simple, yet so delicious. The Kefalotiri really complements the flavor of the fresh arugula and the cured prosciutto.

3 cups Arugula, washed and dried
8 slices Prosciutto di Parma, thinly sliced
4 oz. Aged Kefalotiri cheese
4 tsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Fresh lemon, cut into wedges
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Arrange arugula on platter. Cut prosciutto into 2 inch strips; layer over arugula. Shave the aged graviera with a vegetable peeler. Drizzle with olive oil. Place lemon wedges around platter for individual use. Grind black pepper on top. Serves 4

Myzithra (miz-EE-thra) Greek cheesemakers have been making Myzithra for thousands of years and is considered the ancestor of all Greek whey cheeses. Mizithra is manufactured from whey derived from ewe’s, goats’ or cows’ milk or mixtures of milks in the regions of Macedonia, Thrace, Thessalia, Sterea Hellas, Peloponissos, Ionian islands, Aegean island and Crete island. Sweet, creamy and delicious, myzithra can be drizzled with honey and eaten with wheat biscuits or scones. The most common cheese of the islands, it is usually made by adding fresh milk to the whey left from the production of other hard cheeses. Full-fat sheep’s milk ricotta is a very good substitute but if all you can find is cow’s milk ricotta, simply strain it and add some heavy cream. Myzithra is also salted and air-dried to produce a firm cheese that’s wonderful grated on pasta or other savory dishes.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at http://www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

Stacey talks Cheese 101 with Kojo Nnamdi

Kojo Nnamdi in WAMU studio in Washington, DC

If you didn’t get a chance to hear me talk cheese with Kojo Nnamdi, radio-host of the Kojo Nnamdi Show on 88.5FM WAMU you can click here Cheese 101

What a fabulous experience it was to meet Kojo and talk about one of my favorite subjects.

Apparently the producer, Tara Boyle, was so surprised with the number of calls and emails in the cue that we’re discussing a follow-up show(s). Cheese on the radio. Now that’s very interesting.

Stacey discusses Pierre Robert, Affidelice and Rogue River Blue

To Brie, or not to Brie

By Stacey Adams-Zier

Take a look at the cheese case in supermarkets and you will undoubtedly see an array of soft, white, bland cheeses masquerading as “brie.” Don’t be fooled by these imposters! Authentic Brie offers a lovely dosage of savory, mouthwatering, creamy, milky flavors and melts on your tongue with a sensuous feel unmatched by mass-produced imitators.

Brie is one of the great achievements of French cheesemaking and dates, by legend, to the fifth century. To produce Brie’s soft, moist, velvety texture, the curds are cut large, carefully hand-ladled into molds and drained without pressing. The mold, Penicillium candidum, is added to the milk or sprayed on the fresh wheels allowing the cheese to develop its characteristic thin “bloomy” white rind. In French, “bloomy rind” is called croute-fleurie or “flowering crust.” The mold is largely responsible for ripening Brie, breaking down the milk proteins and softening the cheese from the outside in until it becomes soft and creamy throughout. A gentle press in the center of the wheel will reveal its ripeness.

Of the many types of Bries, the top two are Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun and are produced “au lait cru”, (with raw cow’s milk.) Brie de Meaux is, without question, the finest, certainly the best known and rightly named Le
Roi de Fromages –The King of Cheese. Unfortunately, U.S. laws prohibit these delicious cheeses from entering our country; however, for a near luxury experience, I highly recommend the following pasteurized versions.

Fromage de Meaux [fro-maj-duh-MOH] Fromage de Meaux is produced in exactly the same way as Brie de Meaux, with the exception that it is pasteurized. The AOC status awarded to Brie de Meaux in 1980 stated that all cheeses must be made from raw cow’s milk. Therefore, in order to satisfy the huge demand for this cheese as well as comply with US import regulations concerning raw milk cheeses, Robert Rouzaire of Tournan-en-Brie compromised and made an equally delicious version with pasteurized milk for export that is very close to the original. As with Brie de Meaux, the characteristics of Fromage de Meaux are luxuriously rich, buttery and smooth, with burgeoning flavors that fill the palate in a balanced and creamy way. Aged for 4 to 6 weeks, it develops a complex flavor of mushrooms, truffles and ripe fruit. Packed in a large wooden box it’s the largest format of all the Bries. Pair Fromage de Meaux with unoaked or lightly oaked Chardonnay or Pinot Gris or medium-bodied red wines with moderate tannins, such as Syrah and Merlot.

Brie de Nangis [BREE-duh-nahn-GEEZ] Brie de Nangis almost disappeared from production but has seen a revival over the past few decades and Rouzaire, master of soft-ripened cheeses, is now the only Brie de Nangis producer in France. A little smaller and hence quicker to ripen than its bigger and better known brother Brie de Meaux, Brie de Nangis is smooth and has a slightly chalky center that becomes creamy with age. Packed in a nice little wooden box, it leaves France and lands in our specialty cheese shops in prime condition; young with a furry white rind and a firm milky and sweet center. I like to let this cheese age a bit longer to produce a lip-smacking, creamy, supple texture. Pair Bris de Nangis with a Sauvignon Blanc and bigger reds such as Merlot.

Coulommiers [KOO-lum-ee-yay] Coulommiers is as much an ancient and true Brie as Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun, but it does not have A.O.C. status. Though the differences may seem trivial to us, the reason for this is that there is no standard recipe or uniform size agreed upon by its various producers, thereby disqualifying it from name-controlled protection. Like all the artisanal cheeses of the Brie family, the best Coulommiers are made from pure, high-quality cow’s milk of local herds. Encased in a thin rind of bloomy white mold, the creamy paste has the color of freshly churned butter and tastes milky with a slight nuttiness. Coulommiers pairs well with White Burgundy (Chardonnay), Sauvignon Blanc (California or Languedoc), or even Merlot.

Fougerus [FOO-zhay-ROO] Robert Rouzaire created this delicacy whose name comes from the French word for fern, fougere. Similar to Coulommiers and slightly larger, Fougerus has a mild, creamy, smooth, soft paste that begs for a piece of crusty French baguette. The rind has a slight orange tinge with a dusting of white mold. Each 6-inch disk is adorned with a sprig of fern leaves from nearby fields that blends an earthy perfume with the mushroomy flavor of the cheese. It’s an all-out sensory experience. Fougerus is most successfully paired with light-bodied, softer red and white wines such as Vouvray, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blends and Beaujolais cru.

Brie will always let you know where it is in its lifespan. A classic French Brie becomes slightly rusty on the rind, but the paste should look light yellow and bulge when perfectly ripe, not runny and oozy. Warning signs of over ripeness are discoloration, odd texture, or the smell of ammonia. The rind should be slightly rough, light brown, and covered in white mold. Avoid any that have grey on the edges between the rind and the cheese; it’s very likely overripe and too strong.

Genuine French Brie is a celebration and once you’ve tasted one, you’ll see why faux “bries” aren’t even in the same league. If you aren’t running for your passport, then run to your nearest cheese shop and have a taste for yourself.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

The Art of the Cheese Soufflé

Cheese Souffle-serve immediately!

By Stacey Adams-Zier

As a chef, I know some cooking techniques are so fascinating yet can be frustrating for even the serious cook, especially when the last line of the recipe says “serve immediately”.

Making a soufflé is a dramatic presentation, tinged with suspense that requires careful preparation, concentration, and practice. But as my friend, Michael Ruhlman writes his “Elements of Cooking,” “Soufflés are less fragile and difficult than their reputation suggests.” A well executed one is well worth the effort, leaving your guest in awe of your impressive magical act. Trust me, photographing it before it collapsed was way harder.

Once you have the techniques down you can begin to have fun with the one ingredient that creates the rich flavor and moist, creamy texture – cheese. The cheese not only adds flavor, but also helps to hold the soufflé together. A traditional cheese soufflé is made with Gruyère (see the recipe below) but since I have access to so many cheeses I thought I’d experiment a little with a week-long soufflé making extravaganza.

Alpine cheeses like Gruyère, Comté, Appenzeller and Fontina all rose to the challenge and made incredibly creamy and nutty soufflés (remember these are the cheeses used in fondue.) Farmstead cheddars like Fiscalini and England’s Quickes added a fruity, sharp zing to the soufflés while Spanish cheeses, like Mahon and Iberico, added a wonderful depth of flavor and complexity. Goudas such as Prima Donna and Beemster made incredibly savory soufflés and the one goat cheese I tried, Valencay, made a delightfully light and tangy soufflé perfect for springtime.

My favorite soufflé was a surprise for even myself: A gorgeous, perfectly risen, crusty-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside Gorgonzola soufflé (see recipe below.) Gorgonzola is one of those “where have you been all my life” kind of cheeses that I can’t get enough of. This zenith of blues is neither too soft nor too salty and has just the right amount of creaminess to allow the soufflé to rise to perfection.

If you’ve never dared to make a cheese soufflé or have had fallen soufflé nightmares, I hope that I’ve made you feel a little more comfortable to give it a try. As the famous culinarian, James Beard, once said, “The only thing that will make a soufflé fall is if it knows you are afraid of it.”

Julia’s Cheese Soufflé

(Adapted from Julia Child)

Room-temperature butter, for greasing the mold and collar

2-3 Tbs grated Parmesan cheese, for coating the mold

4 Tbs butter

4 ½ Tbs all purpose flour

1 ½ cups hot milk

½ tsp salt

1/8 tsp freshly ground white pepper

¼ tsp paprika

A grating of fresh nutmeg

6 large egg yolks

7 large egg whites (at room temperature)

5 oz Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated (about 1 ½ cups)

Arrange rack in the bottom third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Butter the mold and sprinkle the sides and bottom with the grated Parmesan cheese. Melt the 4 tablespoons butter in the saucepan over medium heat and whisk in the flour to make a smooth paste. Cook for about 2 minutes without coloring. Pour in the hot milk all at once, whisking constantly to form a roux. Bring to a boil, cook for 2 minutes, until it becomes thick. Remove from the heat and whisk in the salt, pepper, paprika, and nutmeg.

One at a time, whisk the egg yolks into the hot sauce.

In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff and shining. Scoop ¼ of the whites into the sauce and whisk to lighten it. Sprinkle in a good handful of the grated Gruyere cheese. Then scrape the lightened sauce back into the whites and fold gently without deflating the egg whites. Gently fold in remaining cheese.

Pour the soufflé mixture in to the mold and smooth the top (it should be ¾ full.) Place in the middle of the oven and bake for 45 minutes, until the soufflé has puffed about 2 inches above the mold, it should still jiggle a bit in the center. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.

Gorgonzola Cheese Soufflé

3 Tbs unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the dish

4 egg yolks, at room temperature

1/8 tsp cayenne powder

1 cup whole milk

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

3 1/2 oz Gorgonzola cheese

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for sprinkling

1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

5 egg whites, at room temperature

1/4 tsp Kosher salt

1/8 tsp cream of tartar

Preheat oven to 400°F. Butter the inside of an 8-cup soufflé dish (approximately 7 ½ inches by 3 ¼ inches) and sprinkle evenly with parmesan cheese.

In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks and cayenne powder for about 2-3 minutes. Reserve.

In a small saucepan, scald the milk (bring to a near boil), turn off the heat and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. When the butter is completely melted, add the flour all at once into the hot butter, whisking constantly, for about 2-3 minutes. Lower the heat. Slowly add the milk while stirring constantly.

Add the gorgonzola cheese, parmesan cheese, black pepper and nutmeg. Whisk in the egg yolk mixture until the texture is smooth and creamy.

In a stainless steel mixing bowl, add the egg whites, salt and cream of tartar. Beat the egg whites for about 2 minutes to a medium speed. Increase to the maximum speed and keep beating for another 2-3 minutes until the whites form firm, glossy peaks. Do not overbeat or the texture will become too dry.

Pour 1/3 of the egg white mixture into the cheese mixture to lighten and then gently fold in the rest. Pour into the soufflé dish, and then smooth the top and place in the middle of the oven. Turn the temperature down to 375 degrees and bake for 30-35 minutes (don’t peek!) until puffed and brown, it should still jiggle a bit in the center. Serve im-me-dia-te-ly!

To serve, hold your serving fork and spoon down back-to-back and plunge them into the crust to pull it apart. Spoon out portions that include some of the crusty sides and top, and the soft, creamy center.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

Master Chocolatier of France

Le premier class du chocolat 2009

I had the priviledge of being invited with an elite group of pastry chefs from some of this country’s most famous restaurants (Per Se, Bouchon, L’Auberge Provencale, The Grand) to participate in the premier class du Chocolat at Michel Cluizel’s Atelier du Chocolat in Damville, France. The 3-day class was taught by the renouned Pastry Chef and World Champion, Phillippe Parc.

Although the course was taught completely in French (I’ve regained most of my fluency after 12 years of French lessons) I learned that working with chocolat transends words. More on what we learned, composed and ate to be posted soon….think molecular spherification with the best chocolate in the world.

American Artisanal Raw-Milk Cheeses

Run Date: April 8, 2009

Title: The Cheese Course

By Stacey Adams-Zier

Not a day goes by that I don’t get asked a question about raw milk cheeses: are they safe to eat; can you buy them in the U.S.; or, are they made in the U.S.? The simple answer is yes, yes, and yes.

Two spectacular raw-milk cheeses

The world’s greatest cheeses have always been made from raw milk. It’s a subject of great debate in this country and as a cheese professional; I feel it’s my responsibility to help diminish some of the confusion concerning the use of raw milk in cheese production. The process of pasteurization (heating milk to 100 degrees F.) kills bacteria: both good and bad types. Good bacteria help turn milk into cheese and are largely responsible for cheese’s aroma and flavor. Bad bacteria rarely survive in a raw milk environment and can actually multiply in a pasteurized one where there are no other bacteria to complete with.

U.S. regulations specify that raw milk cheeses for sale or made in the U.S. must be aged a minimum of sixty days at which time all bacteria will have been killed off. Unfortunately, this leaves out the younger cheeses normally aged between thirty and forty-five days. Typically these are bries, camemberts and other soft-ripened cheeses regardless of milk-type. Many European cheesemakers, especially in France, have revised their recipes to adhere to U.S. regulations and continue to export to the U.S. market. So, for now, if you want to taste a true raw-milk camembert, you’ll still have to buy a plane ticket to Normandy, France.

Nothing compares to the complexity of a freshly-made, properly-aged, raw-milk cheese. All across our nation cows, sheep and goats dot the landscape and our farmstead cheesemakers are fastidious about the purity of the milk they use for their cheeses. Pasteurization may be insurance against potentially harmful milk, yet it also spells loss of flavor and character. If a small farmstead cheesemaker takes care, employing every basic means to ensure milk purity and dairy hygiene, that is the best guarantee of happy animals and healthy milk.

Here are a few worth considering for your spring cheeseboard.

Dancing Cow Farm only makes handmade cheeses from raw cow’s milk, un-cooled, that flows directly from the cows in the milking parlor into the cheese vat. Milk, fresh from the cows, arrives at the vat at the perfect temperature to begin the process of making the cheese. Steve and Karen Getsz make cheese at Dancing Cow Farm seven days a week during the milking season, roughly from March to December. This rigorous and unique method of crafting cheese using milk exclusively from a single milking and never chilling, storing or heat treating the milk helps capture the true flavors of the “Terroir”. Carefully un-molded and hand salted, their cheese is prepared for its affinage in a cave, either on their farm or at the Cellars at Jasper Hill in Vermont. During its time in the cave the cheese is gently turned, brushed or washed until it emerges precisely when its creamy texture and flavor profiles are at their peak.

Bourrée is a washed-rind cheese with an earthy aroma, made from raw cow’s milk from only a single milking. It’s supple paste and rich, creamy texture melts into a beautiful smoky, meaty, lingering finish. Incidentally, the name Bourrée comes from a French peasant dance with rapid foot movements, much like the cows at Dancing Cow Farm when first turned out into lush, green spring pasture. Bourrée is cave aged at the Cellars at Jasper Hill a minimum of eighty days and won a 2008 American Cheese Society award for best in its class. Bourrée pairs well with Riesling, Pinot Gris (Tokay d”Alsace) and Viogner which all bring out the cheese’s nutty notes.

When Helen Feete first began making cheese she had virtually no cheesemaking experience. Now, Virginia’s Meadow Creek Dairy raw-milk cheeses have become the ones people are seeking out. Their devotion to the land and to their eighty Jersey cows is what makes their cheese exceptional. Their cheeses are made within two hours of milking, so the milk is super fresh. And they are a seasonal grazing dairy, milking from March through December, timing peak nutritional needs of the cattle with the peak of grass growth.

Appalachian, Helen’s newest cheese is available from June through April. This square tomme has a supple straw color paste and a rustic white mould rind with glimpses of pink showing through. Taste it in June and it will be mild and buttery with a spicy finish and a hint of mushroom. But a sample in April proves how incredible this cheese can be. Layer up layer of flavor, with a firm, slightly crumbly texture, the paste turns golden brown in color. Pair Appalachian with rich, aromatic, spicy, lush white wines, such as Chardonnay (white Burgundy), Gewurztraminer, Riesling Spatlese and Viognier.

In 1992, Pat Elliott indirectly stumbled into artisan cheesemaking after buying a border collie puppy on impulse at a wine festival. Realizing her pup needed something to occupy his time, she bought a pair of ewes (border collies are traditionally sheepherding dogs) and as time went on, sheep led to milk and milk led to cheese. Today, Pat has over one hundred sheep and a growing pack of border collies.

Everona Piedmont is Pat’s signature raw sheep’s milk cheese. It’s aged for two to six months and has a firm natural-rind encasing a semi-firm, yellowish-gold paste with tiny holes throughout. The rich texture is met with a complexity of flavor with hints of butter, fruit, herbs, and grass all rolled in together with earthy undertones. It’s a cheese that is soul satisfying to eat on a nice spring day with a hunk of crusty bread and a glass of Pinot Noir.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

Mixed Milk Cheeses add Richness and Complexity

First published in The Capital Gazette March 25, 2009

By Stacey Adams-Zier

Almost all of the world’s finest wines are ‘blended wines’, made from the blending of different grapes and different barrels or vats of the same grape. Like wine, some of the world’s finest chocolate is the result of expert blending of cacao beans from different regional plantations. So, in the cheese world, is it any surprise that some of the most complex and utterly divine cheeses come from the blending of milks?

The possibilities are endless as artisans continue to exercise their creativity by mixing milk from goats, sheep, and cows to create creamy, rich and complex cheeses. As much as I love a straightforward Chèvre or brie, it’s the mixed variety that keeps me intrigued and guessing.

In a mixed milk cheese, cow’s milk might be combined with sheep’s milk to create the cheese equivalent of butter. Goat’s milk – with its tangy, aromatic and creamy qualities can be mixed with the sweetness and richness of cow’s milk, bringing together two distinct flavors into one memorable cheese.

Generally speaking, cows’ milk provides most of the mass, flavor and desired acidity level in cheese. Goats’ milk contributes whiteness (cow’s milk gives a yellow hue) and mildly zesty and tart flavor. Sheep’s milk increases flavor, richness and butteriness (mouthfeel); since it is rich in dry matter and fat content. It’s often been said that the more sheep’s milk in the cheese, the better the cheese.

A perfect example is La Tur made by the Italian cheesemakers, Caseificio Dell’Alta Langa – three milks, and two textures, that merge into one cheese’s best approximation of butter with an attitude.

Creamy, dense and intense, La Tur is made from a mixture of pasteurized cow, sheep and goat’s milk and is a study in cheese addiction. When perfectly ripe the thin, edible bloomy rind barely contains the full and moist milk cloud. This rich buttery cupcake is even more delicious (if that is possible!) paired with Prosecco. The richness of the cheese melts away with a sip of the Italian sparkling wine. This pairing would make a wonderful dessert – if you can wait until after dinner to eat it!

Old Chatham Sheepherding Company Hudson Valley Camembert burst onto the scene in New York in 1994 and has been gaining ground ever since. Located in the rolling hills in the upper Hudson River Valley, Tom and Nancy Clark won a prestigious “Best Cheese in America” award in 2001 and first place at the 2008 American Cheese Society Awards. But is this really Camembert? It’s not like any French Camembert we may be familiar with. It isn’t runny and mushroomy as the great French Normandy versions. It’s shaped in a small 4-ounce square and made from pasteurized sheep and cow’s milk. This blend of milks creates an intensely creamy, sweet, and mild flavor – a gentler Camembert. Each piece of cheese is hand-wrapped in special paper and labeled with their distinctive Black Sheep logo. Although I typically pair traditional French Camemberts with classic Burgundy reds, I find Old Chatham best enjoyed with softer white wines like Chardonnay, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc.

The mixture of milks gives Ibérico [eey-ber-ic-OH] a modern, Spanish cheese, a truly three dimensional character.

Spanish regulations require that mixed milk cheeses contain not less than 25% and not more than 40% of any one milk type. Produced in Central Spain, Ibérico is made with a blend of: cow’s (a minimum of 50%), goat’s (a minimum of 30%) and sheep’s (a minimum of 10%) milk and the flavor profile has elements of all three. The creamy texture melts in the mouth gradually, releasing a rich, full bodied nuttiness before delivering a fruity tang on the finish. Although it’s made in much the same way as Manchego (even the rinds look similar bearing the marks of the esparto (plaited/braided grass) bands used in the draining process), there is no mistaking the textural difference. Pair Ibérico with Spanish reds and lighter Pinot Noirs.

Gabietou [gah-bee-ay-TOO], produced by Gabriel Bachelet and aged by Hervé Mons outside of Roanne, France, is a relatively new (debuted in 2001) French mixed-milk cheese made in traditional Pyrenees style. The blend of raw cow (two-thirds) and sheep’s milk (one third) gives a unique flavor profile that’s buttery, meaty and somewhat “hoofy” (in a good way.) The 7-pound wheel is washed in a brine made with rock salt from a nearby village famed for its warm, salty springs creating a golden-orange hue with a light coating of white mold. When young, about four to six months, it somewhat resembles a young Gruyere on the inside but as it ages the complex flavors of the raw milks emerge. Given Gabietou’s nutty notes, a Madeira in a sweet or dry style, or an Italian moscato would be a good wine partner.

Never before have we seen so many mixed milk cheeses in every classification, including blues, in the cheese counter. The process is more difficult since the milk from each animal contributes its own chemical characteristic to the formula and like a fine bottle of wine, the success will only be revealed after the cheese has aged.

Next up in The Cheese Course: Raw Milk Cheeses – Dispelling all the myths

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

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