Le Pain Quotidien

Rustic artisanal breads from Ace Bakery, Toronto, Canada

Smoked Cheeses Perfect for Grilling Season

By Stacey Adams-Zier

 

Many years ago, I purchased a Cameron stovetop smoker and spent a summer smoking just about everything in my refrigerator from vegetables to fish; everything was fair game. Adding a hint of smoke to a recipe seemed to elevate a boring, one-dimensional dish to a deep, complex one. I wondered what would happen if I smoked a wedge of cheese.

The first attempt was dreadful, resulting in a melted mess of in the bottom of the smoker. Clearly, heat was not my friend but I was determined to succeed. Several more failed attempts forced me to change my technique and that is when I learned about an indirect smoking method called cold smoking.

Cold smoking is a natural smoking process using wood chips, nutshells and the like to flavor enhance foods without being directly on the source of the heat and smoke. When used for fish, poultry, or meats, the food is not completely cooked and further grilling or roasting is required. However, it is the perfect method for smoking cheese.

Nearly any firm cheese can be cold smoked from Gouda to mozzarella. The trick is to allow the cheese to come to room temperature to dry out a little to form a skin and then maintain a temperature below 90 degrees while the cheese smokes.

If this sounds like too much of a hassle, you can always run to your nearest cheese shop and pick up original smoked cheeses from around the world. Here are some of my favorites:

Winchester Smoked Gouda Gouda [HOW-dah, GOO-dah] takes its name from a small city between Utrecht and Rotterdam in the South Holland province of western Netherlands. First produced in the 6^th century, it is still one of the most popular cheeses known around the world. Fortunately we do not have to travel far to taste some outstanding Goudas produced right here in the U.S. Jules Wesselink, born and raised in Haarlem, Holland, moved to the U.S. and started Winchester Cheese Company in southern California where he has been making award-winning Goudas since the 1992. Among my favorites from his dairy is the Winchester Hickory Smoked Gouda. I have tasted plenty of smoked cheeses in my lifetime and this one is by far the best. Unlike the ubiquitous and unimpressive brown wax smoked Gouda found in most supermarkets, theirs is a raw milk cheese that is carefully aged over months then cold smoked over hickory chips. Rich in flavor and texture as most Boere Kaas Goudas are, it has a unique deep smoky flavor that screams campfire. Eat it straight, jazz up a burger or melt on a grilled pizza with caramelized onions and sautéed mushrooms.

Scamorza [skah-MOHRD-tsah] is a cute pear-shaped cheese, almost gourd-like, about the size of your fist with a large knob at the top where the cheesemaker tied it with twine and hung it to age. Made primarily in the Campania region of southern Italy, this pasta filata cheese is made with pasteurized cow’s, sheep’s, or water buffalo’s milk and has a much drier and elastic texture than mozzarella. When Scamorza is smoked, they label it affumicato (an Italian term used to describe meat that has been smoked.) The rind takes on a light brown color while the interior of the cheese remains creamy white. Italians often grate or melt Scamorza in pasta dishes; but my favorite ways to eat it is sliced on crusty Italian bread, topped with prosciutto and pressed on a panini grill. Now that is a grilled cheese sandwich!

Bruder Basil [BROO-der BAH-zeel] Lush mountain pastures full of fragrant herbs and impressive peaks of the Bavarian Alps are home to Bergader Privatkäserei Cheese Dairy founded by Basil Weixler in 1902. Bruder Basil (literally Brother Basil), one of their finest handmade cheeses, is cold smoked over Alpine beech wood and ripened for 4 to 6 weeks producing a smooth, creamy, supple mouthfeel with a mild smokiness. The cheese is made with pasteurized cow’s milk and ladled into 2 and 4-pound rectangular molds. In the smoking room, the rind hardens and takes on a nice reddish-brown color. Pair Bruder Basil with a frosty German Lager, white wines with a strong bouquet (Pinot Gris), Chardonnay and soft reds.

Rogue Smokey Blue In 1956, Ig Villa returned from a tour of the Roquefort Region of France with a recipe for blue cheese and an envelope of Penicillium roquefortii. From that point on, Rogue Creamery, based in Central Point, Oregon, has been producing world-famous blue cheeses. Their “Oregon Blue” was the first blue cheese made on the west coast and the first blue ever smoked. Rogue Smokey Blue is unusually creamy and pungent with a rich smoky flavor. Cold-smoked over Oregon hazelnut shells for 16 hours, it has a balance of sweet caramel and hazelnut flavors that marries well with the sharpness of the cheese. It starts out on your palate like seductive Roquefort but finishes with hints of smoke. It is a standout on a summer cheese board, but I also love it with grilled steaks, plank-grilled salmon or grilled heads of romaine lettuce drizzled with olive oil and balsamic glaze. Pair with Pinot Gris, late harvest Chardonnay, and fruity Zinfandels and Merlots.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

Sources:

http://www.bergader.de website for Bergader Cheese Dairy Bruder Basil

The Cheese Lover’s Companion, Herbst page 110-111

http://www.winchestercheese.com website for Winchester Smoked Gouda

All-Star American Cheeses for the Fourth of July

Run Date: July 1, 2009

By Stacey Adams-Zier

David Gremmels and Cary Bryant, cheesemakers at Rogue Creamery in Central Point, Oregon, had no cheesemaking experience when they first started in 2002. A year later, they created Rogue River Blue, an intriguing cheese that won first place in the blue category at the World Cheese Awards and in 2004 won the blue category at the American Cheese Society conference. Today, they continue to mesmerize us with new, groundbreaking blue cheeses and are the first cheesemakers in the United Sates to be granted an exportation license for a raw milk cheese.

This pair certainly worked their wonders when they produced Rogue River Blue, their most expensive blue and one that I consider to be the most distinctive blue cheese made in America. The original mold strain developed by Tom Vella in 1957 is still introduced into the curds.

Handmade in the style of Roquefort using milk of grass-fed Jersey and Holstein cows from the local Umpqua Dairy, the wheels are aged in the cave for 8 to 12 months. The cheese’s moisture is preserved by hand-wrapping the wheels in grape leaves soaked in pear brandy.

It hits every one of my sensory receptors: its creamy texture collides with buttery and salty flavors and as I approach the rind the aroma from the pear brandy-macerated leaves makes my head begin to swoon.

If you’re enjoying the cheese alone, pair it with a refined dessert wine, such as a Sauternes or botrytised [boh-TRY-tihsd] Sauvignon Blanc (this is a description of wines that have a sweet, uniquely aromatic, honeyed characteristic in both flavor and fragrance. This trait is caused by grapes that have been infected with a mold known as BOTRYTIS CINEREA.)

If you’d like to make the ultimate Fourth of July Burger, stuff some Rogue River Blue in the center of a plump, juicy burger grilled to perfection. Top it with a juicy grilled tomato and sweet Maui onion and there you’ll have the ultimate burger.

Red, White and Blue Burgers

Makes 4 burgers:

1 pound lean ground beef (preferably 80-85% fat)

6 ounces Rogue River Blue Cheese, divided

Kosher Salt and Pepper, to taste

4 Thick slices fresh beefsteak tomatoes

1 large Sweet Onion (preferably Maui onion), thickly sliced

Extra virgin olive oil (for grilling)

Wet your hands and divide the beef into 4 even portions. For each portion, flatten into a patty, make an indention in the middle and fill with Rogue River Blue cheese. Mold the beef around the cheese to completely encase it. Season with salt and pepper.

Put the sliced tomatoes on oiled (extra virgin olive oil preferred) foil or in a foil pie tin.

Place the stuffed burgers on a prepared, hot grill and cook until done to your liking, about 5-8 minutes per side. Place tomatoes on the hot grill and heat.

To serve, top the burgers with tomatoes and onions and serve immediately.

Wabash Cannonball, a small ball-shaped goat cheese is produced by Master cheesemaker, Judy Schad of Capriole Farms in Greenville, Indiana. Capriole is one of the first artisan producers of aged, raw milk goat cheeses in the U.S. and one of its greatest advocates.

“We believe cheeses achieve their ultimate complexity and depth of flavor when they reflect the natural biodiversity of animals and place. We make our fresh, ripened, and aged chèvres by hand, right here, using only the milk of our own herd.”

Each 3-ounce ball or “boulet” (which translates to “cannonball”) is dusted with a light coating of ash and P. candidum mold which will, over the next 10 to 21 days, produce a semi-soft paste with a gentle, creamy, slightly acidic flavor.

It’s definitely denser, creamier, and mellower than your average fresh goat cheese and when right out of the aging room resembles more a snowball than a cannonball. But, with a little age it will start to wrinkle and harden, revealing the dark ash below the snowy white rind and look more like a small rock or cannonball.

Pair the Wabash Cannonball with whites such as Champagne (Blanc de Noirs), California Sauvignon Blanc, and Grűner Veltliner or reds such as California Zinfandel.

Chèvres are wonderful in summer salads especially when paired with fresh berries. Why not dress up your Fourth of July Celebration with my All-American Salad with Chèvre, Mint and Fresh Berries.

All-American Salad with Chèvre, Mint and Fresh Berries

Serves 4

1 Tablespoon strawberry preserves

2 Tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar

½ cup light olive oil

3 small heads of Boston lettuce, washed and patted dry

½ cup fresh mint washed, dried, & torn by hand (to prevent the leaves from turning black)

½ pint strawberries, rinsed & topped, & sliced lengthwise

½ pint fresh blueberries, rinsed, stems removed

3 Wabash Cannonballs (you can substitute other fresh Chèvre)

In a small bowl, whisk together the strawberry preserves, balsamic vinegar and oil. Place the lettuce in a large mixing bowl and gently toss with the vinaigrette. Arrange the lettuce leaves in overlapping layers on a platter or individual salad plates. Sprinkle the sliced strawberries, blueberries and mint leaves on top and arrange wedges of Wabash Cannonballs on top the salad.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at http://www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

Ewe-phoric Spanish Cheeses

By Stacey Adams-Zier

As I go about my daily ritual of caring for my cheeses, I often repeat a simple mantra: “Sheep’s milk makes the best cheese, sheep’s milk makes the best cheese…” If you doubt this, just have a taste for yourself. From the ever famous French Roquefort to the little known Portuguese Azeitao, sheep’s milk cheeses represent something a little exotic and out of the ordinary and the best I know come from Spain.

Sheep naturally produce a smaller quantity of richer, more concentrated milk over a shorter time period than cows and since cheesemaking is all about concentrating the flavors in the milk, ewe’s milk is one step ahead in the process. It’s often said that goat’s milk is best for drinking, cow’s milk makes the best butter, and sheep’s milk makes the best cheese. Although it contains twice as much fat as cow’s milk, it offers over 75 percent more protein. Sheep’s milk is easily identifiable over cow’s milk because it’s pure white in color.

Spain has a high average elevation with windswept, rocky pasturelands and displays all the markets of superior cheesemaking: rustic local production; cheeses named after their places of origin; and ancient traditions upheld by generations of farmers, herders and cheesemakers. With over 100 cheeses produced in Spain, 14 are protected under the DO laws and labeled Denominacion de Origen Protegida.

Here are three of my favorites:

Idiazabál [ee-dee-ah-ZAH-bal] is a raw sheep’s milk cheese made from the milk of the Latxa breed, which only produce 100 liters of milk per season. The name Idiazabál comes from a village in the Goierri Valley in the heart of the Basque region. The reason why Idiazabál was chosen as the name of this cheese’s DOP it is not clear, but its long-held reputation – for more than a century – as a producer of quality cheese seems to be the most likely reason. The origin of Idiazabál resides in the tradition of the transhumance, the annual ritual of moving animals into the mountains to feed on spring and summer pasture and then back down to the valley during cold spells. The shepherds made their spring and summer cheeses in huts and brought the wheels down to the market in the village when they descended in the fall. The huts were heated with wood fires, so the cheeses gradually became infused with smoke, and the villagers soon came to love the taste. This smoked sheep’s milk cheese is aged for at least two months and is firm but not dry, with a pronounced acidity and a rich, buttery sheep’s milk taste subtly infused with smoke. Because of the smokiness, finding a wine partner for Idiazabál can be a challenge. If the cheese is young, it will pair well with a fino sherry; if it’s more mature, look to a dry amontillado sherry or a robust fruity red wine such as a young Rioja.

Queso de la Serena [KEH-soh deh lah seh-REHN-ah] is one of Spain’s wonderful “torta-style” cheeses hailing from the province of Badajoz, in Extremadura (“the land of Extremes”), in western Spain and was awarded DOP status in 1992. The prized Merino sheep is an ancient and venerable breed responsible for making this one of Spain’s greatest cheeses feeding solely on fresh grass and acorns. A farmer needs ten sheep to produce enough milk for a single pound of cheese. It’s hardly surprising, then, that Queso de la Serena is one of the most expensive cheeses in Spain. It’s traditionally made with raw milk and coagulated with rennet from the Cynara cardunculus (cardoon thistle) plant imparting subtle bitter and sour hints to the cheese. At its peak, Serena is very soft, provocatively flavored, and ultimately intoxicating. The paste is rich, unctuous, and silky however don’t let that fool you. Serena is not for the novice cheese eater. Its pungent flavor has a bit of a kick that mellows in the mouth and ends with a sweet fruitiness. I like to think of it as the ultimate party cheese because you simply slice across the top and dive in with a spoon. It’s like having instant fondue with an edible pot and no messy dishes to clean. Match a glass of Rioja with some olives and a bit of the Serena and you have a culinary trip to Spain without having to brush up on those high school Spanish lessons.

Zamorano [sah-moh-RAHN-oh] is a majestic, noble cheese produced in Zamora, in the province of Castile-Leon, northwest of Madrid, near the northeastern corner of Portugal. It is similar to Manchego, but the local breeds of sheep – the Churra and the Castilian, both bred for the high-quality milk-have a higher fat content, giving the cheese an added heft and richness. Each 9-pound drum is pressed, uncooked, rubbed with olive oil and aged a minimum of 100 days in cool caves (which, incidentally, were used for barrel aging of wines.) The hard grayish-brown rind has a distinctive zigzag pattern on its sides, from the esparto grass band tied around it during pressing. A good raw-milk Zamorano has the same dignified stature as Beaufort from France or Parmigiano-Reggiano from Italy. Right out of the cave, the paste is very firm, yet creamy in consistency with a full, round, nutty flavor with just a hint of fruitiness and saltiness. After a few more weeks of aging it gradually crystallizes, becomes flaky, and offers a subtle bite without losing its underlying sweetness. Pair Zamorano with medium-bodied, soft-tannic reds such as Tempranillo blends, Syrah blends, Pinot Noir and ideally, a California Zinfandel.

What to serve with these Spanish cheeses? A few dried figs, Marcona almonds, and some slices of Serrano jamon make the perfect accompaniment to a Spanish cheeseboard. Flamenco music optional.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at http://www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

When in Rome, Eat Cheese the Roman Way

Run Date: June 3, 2009

By Stacey Adams-Zier

Formaggio is the Italian word for cheese but Romans often refer to their cheese as cacio [kah-chee-oh], an ancient term rarely used anywhere else but in Rome. Everywhere around the city I discovered little cheese shops tucked away in alleys or outside in the tented mercato at Campo dei Fiori selling the rustic cheeses of the Lazio region of Italy.

One shop in particular, Micocci-Caca dei Latticini, on the northwest side of Piazza Sallustio, is probably the best place in Rome to discover Italian curds and whey. Best to brush up on your cheese knowledge and Italian language before arriving at this cheeseshop as the proprietors aren’t exactly warm and fuzzy; but what they lack in personality they make up for in their knowledge and care of their cheeses.

“Vorrei un etto di formaggio di capra,” I asked him as he proceeded to slice a small wedge of aged goat cheese. I selected a few more to round out a nice cheese course for after dinner. I’m not big on desserts here, for me, it’s cheese and a little more red wine. The Romans have a saying, “La boca l’e minga straca se la spuza de vaca” or “the mouth cannot be finished until it smells of cows.”

One of my favorite cow’s milk cheeses is Caciocavallo which comes young, aged, smoked, studded with pepperoncino (red pepper flakes) or washed in red wine.

Caciocavallo is made in the northern region of Lazio and is sold in pairs linked by a small piece of twine that resemble small saddlebags. Despite its name, which literally means “horse cheese”, there is nothing equine about it. It’s shaped this way to pay homage to what is believed to be the first cheese ever made. A legendary story has it that cheese was ‘discovered’ by an unknown Arabian nomad who filled his saddlebags with milk to sustain him on his long journey across the desert. After several hours of riding, he opened hi s saddlebags to quench his thirst, only to find that the milk had separated into a lumpy white mixture. Because the saddlebag was made from natural animal sources, it provided the rennet necessary to curd the milk in the hot sun and with a little agitation from the galloping motion of the horse, the curds separated from the liquid whey. Interestingly enough, it’s not far from modern methods of cheesemaking.

Caciocavallo tastes similar to a young Parmigiano-Reggiano but with a much softer rind. When young the cheese is usually slightly salty and smooth; but with age it becomes sharp and perfect for grating. The best Caciocavallo I had in Rome was served heated in a pan of olive oil with a scattering of herbs on top. I couldn’t resist ordering a side of sautéed fresh porcini mushrooms and with a plate of toasted Roman bread, I was in rich, gooey cheese heaven. Caciocavalla was awarded D.O.P. status in 1993 and can now be found in specialty shops in the U.S.

Truly the most popular cheese produced in the Lazio region is pecorino romano, a salty, hard cheese made exclusively with sheep’s milk between the months of October and July and ripened in ancient natural tufa caves dating back to the Etruscan-Roman times. It comes shaped in large drums about 10-14 inches in diameter and weighs between 55 and 75 pounds. Look for the label printed with the name “R Brunelli,” but it’s also sold under the Tiberio brand. The outer rind is covered in a black wax and is always marked with the words “Pecorino Romano DOC” or “Pecorino Romano DOP.” It’s aged between 8 and 12 months and typically used as a grating cheese. Take care in dosing though, as its semi-sharp, sheepy taste can be very different from the sweet, creamy, smooth Parmigiano-Reggiano you’re used to. If you can find a younger wheel, around 5 months, chunk it up on the cheeseboard and serve it accompanied by fruits or vegetables, especially pears and fresh fava beans.

Even though ricotta is made all over Italy, Roman ricotta is hailed as the best and the sweetest. Rome’s ricotta di pecora (also known as ricotta romana) is famous throughout all of Italy and although some of it is exported abroad, most of it is sold within the internal market structure of Italy. It’s made exclusively from the re-cooked whey of sheep’s milk from the Lazio region. After the whole sheep’s milk is heated or cooked the first time and coagulated with rennet, it separates into curds and whey. They curds are formed into molds to form Italy’s prize cheese, pecorino romano. The whey is then reheated to a higher temperature and the proteins cause it to coagulate again into tiny clots. When drained, cooled and stirred they form ricotta. The ricotta is scooped into white baskets (fuscelles) giving it its characteristic interlaced pattern when it’s unmolded. The leftover whey from the second heating is fed to pigs, which might explain why fresh pork in Italy tastes so much richer than that found here in the United States. I love to make ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms, which are so plentiful at the markets this time of year. The rich, full-bodied flavor has a slight tart finish making it perfect for both savory and sweet dishes.

Volpetti is Rome’s most famous deli located in the Testaccio area and a requirement to visit if you are a foodie. The counters groan under the weight of all the cheeses and salumi which brothers, Emilio and Claudio are all too willing to sample. The Mozzarella di Bufala Affumicata e Prosciutto Cotton is like the best carnival food I’ve ever eaten. A chunk of Bufala Mozzarella wrapped in Prosciutto then deep fried in tempura batter and served on a stick. Simply devine.

So, for the next two weeks I plan to do as the Romans do: shop the markets every morning, drink plenty of great red wine and always end my meals with cacio.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at http://www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

Cheeses from the Greek Islands

Santorini, Greece

By Stacey Adams-Zier

If the Melteme winds had been wreaking havoc, as they usually always do in June, I would have sailed right by the Island of Kea and would have never had the chance to meet Aglaia Kremezi, an international authority on Greek foods. What I learned from her changed my way of eating and made me realize that food can be both sophisticated and uncomplicated and as seductive as the Greek islands.

I spent that summer sailing through the Agean Sea, all along the way eating my fill of rich Greek yogurt and honey, succulent grilled octopus, tender Lobster spaghetti and perfect Greek salads. But, it wasn’t until I landed in Kos, an island just west of Turkey, that I had grilled Haloumi, which put a whole new spin on grilled cheese.

I have yet to find a cheese that grills up as nicely as Haloumi. A light, golden-brown crust bubbles up on the outside of the cheese; the interior gets soft but, not quite runny. Don’t worry, grilling Haloumi is hardly difficult. Just slice some of the cheese into half-inch thick pieces, and then lay them into a hot grill that’s been brushed with a bit of olive oil (in fact you can even go without any at all if that’s your preference.) Grill until it’s lightly browned on one side, about two to three minutes and then carefully flip the slices to grill the other side. When the cheese is golden brown on both sides, it’s ready to eat.

Grilled Halloumi with Kalamata olives and fresh tomatoes

I like to serve it with oven-roasted tomatoes scented with mint leaves, cured olives and a caper spread. Even Bobby Flay, grill master of the Food Network, knows good grilled cheese. He grills Haloumi with a sprinkle of oregano and a squeeze of fresh lemon. I can’t think of a better cheese to serve for Memorial Day weekend.

Haloumi (hal-OO-mi), (a.k.a. halloumi, or hallum) the most famous sheep’s milk cheese of Cyprus, is a semi-hard, firm white cheese with a somewhat elastic texture, similar to mozzarella. It is firmer than feta and doesn’t crumble when sliced, making it excellent for grilling and frying. Haloumi is formed into blocks 6 x 4 x 1 inch thick and then cooked in hot whey. The blocks are then salted, folded, and submerged in brine. In the U.S. Halloumi usually sold in vacuum-sealed pouches either plain or sprinkled with mint. If it’s too salty for your taste, simply soak it in cold water overnight or rinse it under lukewarm water for a few minutes. Unlike most cheeses, haloumi can be frozen without losing its texture or flavor.

Feta (feh-TAH) cheese is a staple in the Greece diet. Authentic feta is made primarily from sheep’s milk, with a small amount of goat’s milk and is naturally very white in color with a tangy taste and a creamy texture. Most feta produced in northern Europe and the United States is made with cow’s milk and unfortunately, treated with chemicals to make it white. The flavor and texture is incomparable to the real thing, so read the labels carefully and buy only from a specialty grocer or cheese shop. In 2005, Feta earned DOP status which means that now only feta from Greece can be legally called “feta.” Because it’s shaped into large blocks or small square cakes, cured and stored in its own salty whey-brine for two months, feta is often referred to as pickled cheese. It’s best kept stored in its brine but if this is not possible, buy only a small amount at a time and store it, covered, in the refrigerator where it will last for 3 or 4 days.

From island to island, every Greek salad I ate came adorned with a huge slab of feta rather than the sprinkles or cubes you get here in the U.S. I suppose the Greeks understand that it’s all about the cheese.

If you don’t care for the tanginess of feta a neat trick is to warm it up to coax out the sweetness in the milk. This is one of the quickest appetizers I know that only takes a few ingredients and delivers a sensational presentation. Place a slab of feta on an oven-safe dish and brush with extra-virgin olive oil. Place the dish under the broiler and cook until the feta becomes soft and takes on some brown marks. While it’s cooking heat a small saucepan with a cup of your favorite honey and anise seed. Remove the feta from the oven and drizzle the warm honey on top. Serve with crusty bread or even better, warm pita bread.

Greek Country Salad

6 oz. Feta Cheese in a block
3 Ripe tomatoes, cut in wedges
1 Cucumber, peeled, sliced
1 Green bell pepper, sliced
1 Red onion, sliced medium
1/4 cup Kalamata olives
1/3 cup Extra virgin olive oil
2 TBS Fresh lemon juice
1 tsp Greek oregano
Salt & Pepper to taste

Place the tomatoes, cucumber, pepper, onions and olives in a bowl. Cut the feta into large pieces, place on top of vegetables. Mix dressing in separate bowl, pour over salad. Serve at room temperature. Serves 4.

Other Greek cheeses most readily available in the United States include:

Kefalotyri (kefa-lo-TEE-ri), is considered the ancestor of many hard Greek cheeses. It’s a sharp, pungent, hard aged cheese, and made from a combination of sheep’s and cow’s milk, often with the addition of goat’s milk. It has a salty and piquant taste and a unique rich aroma which is obtained after ripening for at least 3 months. Think pecorino-Romano from Italy or 12-month Manchego from Spain and you’ll get the idea of this style of cheese.

Arugula, Prosciutto and Kefalotiri

So simple, yet so delicious. The Kefalotiri really complements the flavor of the fresh arugula and the cured prosciutto.

3 cups Arugula, washed and dried
8 slices Prosciutto di Parma, thinly sliced
4 oz. Aged Kefalotiri cheese
4 tsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Fresh lemon, cut into wedges
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Arrange arugula on platter. Cut prosciutto into 2 inch strips; layer over arugula. Shave the aged graviera with a vegetable peeler. Drizzle with olive oil. Place lemon wedges around platter for individual use. Grind black pepper on top. Serves 4

Myzithra (miz-EE-thra) Greek cheesemakers have been making Myzithra for thousands of years and is considered the ancestor of all Greek whey cheeses. Mizithra is manufactured from whey derived from ewe’s, goats’ or cows’ milk or mixtures of milks in the regions of Macedonia, Thrace, Thessalia, Sterea Hellas, Peloponissos, Ionian islands, Aegean island and Crete island. Sweet, creamy and delicious, myzithra can be drizzled with honey and eaten with wheat biscuits or scones. The most common cheese of the islands, it is usually made by adding fresh milk to the whey left from the production of other hard cheeses. Full-fat sheep’s milk ricotta is a very good substitute but if all you can find is cow’s milk ricotta, simply strain it and add some heavy cream. Myzithra is also salted and air-dried to produce a firm cheese that’s wonderful grated on pasta or other savory dishes.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at http://www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

Stacey talks Cheese 101 with Kojo Nnamdi

Kojo Nnamdi in WAMU studio in Washington, DC

If you didn’t get a chance to hear me talk cheese with Kojo Nnamdi, radio-host of the Kojo Nnamdi Show on 88.5FM WAMU you can click here Cheese 101

What a fabulous experience it was to meet Kojo and talk about one of my favorite subjects.

Apparently the producer, Tara Boyle, was so surprised with the number of calls and emails in the cue that we’re discussing a follow-up show(s). Cheese on the radio. Now that’s very interesting.

Stacey discusses Pierre Robert, Affidelice and Rogue River Blue

To Brie, or not to Brie

By Stacey Adams-Zier

Take a look at the cheese case in supermarkets and you will undoubtedly see an array of soft, white, bland cheeses masquerading as “brie.” Don’t be fooled by these imposters! Authentic Brie offers a lovely dosage of savory, mouthwatering, creamy, milky flavors and melts on your tongue with a sensuous feel unmatched by mass-produced imitators.

Brie is one of the great achievements of French cheesemaking and dates, by legend, to the fifth century. To produce Brie’s soft, moist, velvety texture, the curds are cut large, carefully hand-ladled into molds and drained without pressing. The mold, Penicillium candidum, is added to the milk or sprayed on the fresh wheels allowing the cheese to develop its characteristic thin “bloomy” white rind. In French, “bloomy rind” is called croute-fleurie or “flowering crust.” The mold is largely responsible for ripening Brie, breaking down the milk proteins and softening the cheese from the outside in until it becomes soft and creamy throughout. A gentle press in the center of the wheel will reveal its ripeness.

Of the many types of Bries, the top two are Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun and are produced “au lait cru”, (with raw cow’s milk.) Brie de Meaux is, without question, the finest, certainly the best known and rightly named Le
Roi de Fromages –The King of Cheese. Unfortunately, U.S. laws prohibit these delicious cheeses from entering our country; however, for a near luxury experience, I highly recommend the following pasteurized versions.

Fromage de Meaux [fro-maj-duh-MOH] Fromage de Meaux is produced in exactly the same way as Brie de Meaux, with the exception that it is pasteurized. The AOC status awarded to Brie de Meaux in 1980 stated that all cheeses must be made from raw cow’s milk. Therefore, in order to satisfy the huge demand for this cheese as well as comply with US import regulations concerning raw milk cheeses, Robert Rouzaire of Tournan-en-Brie compromised and made an equally delicious version with pasteurized milk for export that is very close to the original. As with Brie de Meaux, the characteristics of Fromage de Meaux are luxuriously rich, buttery and smooth, with burgeoning flavors that fill the palate in a balanced and creamy way. Aged for 4 to 6 weeks, it develops a complex flavor of mushrooms, truffles and ripe fruit. Packed in a large wooden box it’s the largest format of all the Bries. Pair Fromage de Meaux with unoaked or lightly oaked Chardonnay or Pinot Gris or medium-bodied red wines with moderate tannins, such as Syrah and Merlot.

Brie de Nangis [BREE-duh-nahn-GEEZ] Brie de Nangis almost disappeared from production but has seen a revival over the past few decades and Rouzaire, master of soft-ripened cheeses, is now the only Brie de Nangis producer in France. A little smaller and hence quicker to ripen than its bigger and better known brother Brie de Meaux, Brie de Nangis is smooth and has a slightly chalky center that becomes creamy with age. Packed in a nice little wooden box, it leaves France and lands in our specialty cheese shops in prime condition; young with a furry white rind and a firm milky and sweet center. I like to let this cheese age a bit longer to produce a lip-smacking, creamy, supple texture. Pair Bris de Nangis with a Sauvignon Blanc and bigger reds such as Merlot.

Coulommiers [KOO-lum-ee-yay] Coulommiers is as much an ancient and true Brie as Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun, but it does not have A.O.C. status. Though the differences may seem trivial to us, the reason for this is that there is no standard recipe or uniform size agreed upon by its various producers, thereby disqualifying it from name-controlled protection. Like all the artisanal cheeses of the Brie family, the best Coulommiers are made from pure, high-quality cow’s milk of local herds. Encased in a thin rind of bloomy white mold, the creamy paste has the color of freshly churned butter and tastes milky with a slight nuttiness. Coulommiers pairs well with White Burgundy (Chardonnay), Sauvignon Blanc (California or Languedoc), or even Merlot.

Fougerus [FOO-zhay-ROO] Robert Rouzaire created this delicacy whose name comes from the French word for fern, fougere. Similar to Coulommiers and slightly larger, Fougerus has a mild, creamy, smooth, soft paste that begs for a piece of crusty French baguette. The rind has a slight orange tinge with a dusting of white mold. Each 6-inch disk is adorned with a sprig of fern leaves from nearby fields that blends an earthy perfume with the mushroomy flavor of the cheese. It’s an all-out sensory experience. Fougerus is most successfully paired with light-bodied, softer red and white wines such as Vouvray, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blends and Beaujolais cru.

Brie will always let you know where it is in its lifespan. A classic French Brie becomes slightly rusty on the rind, but the paste should look light yellow and bulge when perfectly ripe, not runny and oozy. Warning signs of over ripeness are discoloration, odd texture, or the smell of ammonia. The rind should be slightly rough, light brown, and covered in white mold. Avoid any that have grey on the edges between the rind and the cheese; it’s very likely overripe and too strong.

Genuine French Brie is a celebration and once you’ve tasted one, you’ll see why faux “bries” aren’t even in the same league. If you aren’t running for your passport, then run to your nearest cheese shop and have a taste for yourself.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

The Art of the Cheese Soufflé

Cheese Souffle-serve immediately!

By Stacey Adams-Zier

As a chef, I know some cooking techniques are so fascinating yet can be frustrating for even the serious cook, especially when the last line of the recipe says “serve immediately”.

Making a soufflé is a dramatic presentation, tinged with suspense that requires careful preparation, concentration, and practice. But as my friend, Michael Ruhlman writes his “Elements of Cooking,” “Soufflés are less fragile and difficult than their reputation suggests.” A well executed one is well worth the effort, leaving your guest in awe of your impressive magical act. Trust me, photographing it before it collapsed was way harder.

Once you have the techniques down you can begin to have fun with the one ingredient that creates the rich flavor and moist, creamy texture – cheese. The cheese not only adds flavor, but also helps to hold the soufflé together. A traditional cheese soufflé is made with Gruyère (see the recipe below) but since I have access to so many cheeses I thought I’d experiment a little with a week-long soufflé making extravaganza.

Alpine cheeses like Gruyère, Comté, Appenzeller and Fontina all rose to the challenge and made incredibly creamy and nutty soufflés (remember these are the cheeses used in fondue.) Farmstead cheddars like Fiscalini and England’s Quickes added a fruity, sharp zing to the soufflés while Spanish cheeses, like Mahon and Iberico, added a wonderful depth of flavor and complexity. Goudas such as Prima Donna and Beemster made incredibly savory soufflés and the one goat cheese I tried, Valencay, made a delightfully light and tangy soufflé perfect for springtime.

My favorite soufflé was a surprise for even myself: A gorgeous, perfectly risen, crusty-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside Gorgonzola soufflé (see recipe below.) Gorgonzola is one of those “where have you been all my life” kind of cheeses that I can’t get enough of. This zenith of blues is neither too soft nor too salty and has just the right amount of creaminess to allow the soufflé to rise to perfection.

If you’ve never dared to make a cheese soufflé or have had fallen soufflé nightmares, I hope that I’ve made you feel a little more comfortable to give it a try. As the famous culinarian, James Beard, once said, “The only thing that will make a soufflé fall is if it knows you are afraid of it.”

Julia’s Cheese Soufflé

(Adapted from Julia Child)

Room-temperature butter, for greasing the mold and collar

2-3 Tbs grated Parmesan cheese, for coating the mold

4 Tbs butter

4 ½ Tbs all purpose flour

1 ½ cups hot milk

½ tsp salt

1/8 tsp freshly ground white pepper

¼ tsp paprika

A grating of fresh nutmeg

6 large egg yolks

7 large egg whites (at room temperature)

5 oz Gruyère cheese, coarsely grated (about 1 ½ cups)

Arrange rack in the bottom third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Butter the mold and sprinkle the sides and bottom with the grated Parmesan cheese. Melt the 4 tablespoons butter in the saucepan over medium heat and whisk in the flour to make a smooth paste. Cook for about 2 minutes without coloring. Pour in the hot milk all at once, whisking constantly to form a roux. Bring to a boil, cook for 2 minutes, until it becomes thick. Remove from the heat and whisk in the salt, pepper, paprika, and nutmeg.

One at a time, whisk the egg yolks into the hot sauce.

In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff and shining. Scoop ¼ of the whites into the sauce and whisk to lighten it. Sprinkle in a good handful of the grated Gruyere cheese. Then scrape the lightened sauce back into the whites and fold gently without deflating the egg whites. Gently fold in remaining cheese.

Pour the soufflé mixture in to the mold and smooth the top (it should be ¾ full.) Place in the middle of the oven and bake for 45 minutes, until the soufflé has puffed about 2 inches above the mold, it should still jiggle a bit in the center. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.

Gorgonzola Cheese Soufflé

3 Tbs unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing the dish

4 egg yolks, at room temperature

1/8 tsp cayenne powder

1 cup whole milk

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

3 1/2 oz Gorgonzola cheese

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for sprinkling

1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper

1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

5 egg whites, at room temperature

1/4 tsp Kosher salt

1/8 tsp cream of tartar

Preheat oven to 400°F. Butter the inside of an 8-cup soufflé dish (approximately 7 ½ inches by 3 ¼ inches) and sprinkle evenly with parmesan cheese.

In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks and cayenne powder for about 2-3 minutes. Reserve.

In a small saucepan, scald the milk (bring to a near boil), turn off the heat and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. When the butter is completely melted, add the flour all at once into the hot butter, whisking constantly, for about 2-3 minutes. Lower the heat. Slowly add the milk while stirring constantly.

Add the gorgonzola cheese, parmesan cheese, black pepper and nutmeg. Whisk in the egg yolk mixture until the texture is smooth and creamy.

In a stainless steel mixing bowl, add the egg whites, salt and cream of tartar. Beat the egg whites for about 2 minutes to a medium speed. Increase to the maximum speed and keep beating for another 2-3 minutes until the whites form firm, glossy peaks. Do not overbeat or the texture will become too dry.

Pour 1/3 of the egg white mixture into the cheese mixture to lighten and then gently fold in the rest. Pour into the soufflé dish, and then smooth the top and place in the middle of the oven. Turn the temperature down to 375 degrees and bake for 30-35 minutes (don’t peek!) until puffed and brown, it should still jiggle a bit in the center. Serve im-me-dia-te-ly!

To serve, hold your serving fork and spoon down back-to-back and plunge them into the crust to pull it apart. Spoon out portions that include some of the crusty sides and top, and the soft, creamy center.

By Line:  Stacey Adams-Zier is the Chef/Owner and Fromager of Tastings Gourmet Market and Artisanal Cheese Center located in Clock Tower Place, Annapolis, Md. She can be reached at 410.263.1324 or by visiting their website at www.TastingsGourmetMarket.com

Master Chocolatier of France

Le premier class du chocolat 2009

I had the priviledge of being invited with an elite group of pastry chefs from some of this country’s most famous restaurants (Per Se, Bouchon, L’Auberge Provencale, The Grand) to participate in the premier class du Chocolat at Michel Cluizel’s Atelier du Chocolat in Damville, France. The 3-day class was taught by the renouned Pastry Chef and World Champion, Phillippe Parc.

Although the course was taught completely in French (I’ve regained most of my fluency after 12 years of French lessons) I learned that working with chocolat transends words. More on what we learned, composed and ate to be posted soon….think molecular spherification with the best chocolate in the world.